I’m willing to bet that most of you have never heard of the obscure creatures called Trabocchi; I certainly haven’t. Yet now that I have experienced their mystic presence, I cannot stop thinking of those sea-bound, oddly shaped contraptions and their somewhat unnerving appeal.
There is a remarkable 70km part of the Adriatic coastline in the Cheiti province of Abruzzo that is defined by these mythical structures, some of which are more than five centuries old. This stretch has been named UNESCO heritage site for this very reason – it boasts two dozen of these wooden fishing piers, otherwise known as Trabocchi.
Traditionally they were used by local fishermen – a large fishing net was lowered down to sea, suspended by masts that stretching far out. They hover above the water supporting the net, called trabocchetto or “trap.” The arms with the attached nets were raised and lowered with ropes. They were left in the sea for an hour or so, and voila! all kinds of shellfish and fish – anchovies, sardines, seabream and seabass would hop right in. All the fishermen had left to do is collect the catch from crystal clear waters.
Over many years some of these remnants of the bygone era have lost their luster, some have been damaged or partially destroyed by the storms. However, many have been transformed and managed by generational families of fisherman, who operate them as restaurants. This well-timed conversions has allowed visitors to catch a glimpse of history and tradition, to experience first-hand the simple, humble, yet delightful and fulfilling life of living off the sea, while feasting on the freshest of seafood.
Walking along the run-down, creaky platform, balanced on stilts perched off the water, taking in the sights, sounds and smells, one feels as if the time has somehow lapsed. Despite the wobbly stature, these tributes to the past are still standing, and somehow are fully functioning. It brings about sentiments of a simple, yet meaningful way of life and evokes impromptu self-reflection.
This pristine stretch of coast is as unique and captivating as it gets. It isn’t busy, loud, or touristy. Between a thoughtful, unhurried vibe, stunning sunsets and sunrises, and delicious, lavish seafood one starts to envision staying there forever.
The beaches can be quite remote, often accessible only by several flights of stairs; however, the rewards are well worth it. Although rocky and pebbly (comfortable beach shoes are a must) these gems are entirely unspoiled and makes you feel as though you are one with the sea.
The turquoise water is warm, calm and clear, with greyish white perfectly polished pebbles illuminating it… and leading to the horizon that fuses seamlessly with azure skies.
Their unique charm isn’t easily forgotten, and a part of me will forever treasure the gift of Trabocchi.
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