If you love lush, emerald-colored hillsides, tranquil turquoise sea, with its promise of exquisite delicacies, and vibrant, energetic wines, Abruzzo may just be the perfect destination.
With easy access, a mere two hours east of Rome, it is a commanding throwback to medieval times and a feast for the senses. Behind every turn on the Apennine Mountain journey to the stunning Adriatic coastline destination there was a revelation. The nature reserves and historic parks abound, as do medieval towns with castles perched high atop the hilltops of the striking ranges. A plethora of vineyards dot the hillsides, snuggled between the mountains, bathed by the Adriatic breezes. The Mediterranean climate is key to the region’s viticultural feats; an abundance of rain and diurnal temperature shifts that allow the vines to soak in the sunlight and recuperate at night greatly benefit the vines. Several international and a multitude of indigenous varieties thrive in this marquee winegrowing region, which until recently, seemed a tad overlooked.
It is an understated region that is extraordinarily diverse, dynamic and dimensional. It is clearly evolving and hitting its stride, with a more refined identity. I know I will be following it closely.
Some 250-members strong, Consorzio Vini d’Abruzzo features a diverse group of producers, collectively responsible for 1.2 million bottles of wine, heavily dominated by a red variety called Montepulciano di Abruzzo. Several other varieties comprise an extensive regional portfolio of wines that are both great food companions and solo acts.
My peers and I were invited to a comprehensive regional showcase of wines held at a historic castle overlooking one of the most beautiful stretches of the coast. Throughout the experience, many were visibly attracted to a new brightly colored discovery – Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo. Typically made from Montepulciano grapes along with small amounts of other local varieties, (by DOC law the blend can’t contain percentage greater than 15) it is fittingly named after an Italian word for “cherry.” It is highly pigmented, intensely visually appealing, crisp, refreshing rose that is often served as an aperitif.
With a plethora of options, and for the sake of depth, I focused my attention on the following Abruzzo gems:
Pecorino
A light-colored grape, it has nearly gone extinct; brought back to life by a curious grower who stumbled upon a wild bunch of vines in a forgotten vineyard. By 1990, the newly propagated variety was showing a strong performance and became a staple in the alpine areas in several Italian regions.
Pecorino seems to thrive in mountainous terrain with plenty of wind and sun. The name “pecorino” means “little sheep” and is rumored to be named after gourmand sheep flocks that love snacking on the sweet treats at hillside pastures. Main characteristics of this variety that is high in both sugar and acid are florals, such as acacia and star jasmine, and citrus notes, as well as stone fruit and minerality. Although entirely unrelated to the namesake cheese, it seems to pair perfectly with it.
Cococciola
This relatively new green-skinned native grape is herbaceous, savory, and grassy, reminiscent of New World Sauvignon Blanc. It used to be mainly used for blending but recently found its own unique voice. The wines are delicate and highly perfumy, featuring light floral and citrus components. Pink grapefruit and Meyer lemon, along with hints of kiwi and melon unfold on the palate. Cococciola is an elegant variety, with clear persistence and refinement.
Trebbiano
A highly productive variety, it is essentially a white counterpart to the Montepulciano. It seems to take on a style of the maker more than other varieties and has quite a range; it can be narrower in flavor spectrum or perform at high level in the right circumstances. Dry, medium-bodied and slightly herbaceous, with notes of anise, basil, and other garden herbs it often features tart apple and Asian pear, as well as citrus and light tropical notes.
On the viticultural side, there are certainly some exciting changes to report in the overall Abruzzo landscape. For quite some time, there have been several major wine co-ops that are responsible for most of Abruzzo’s wine production and export. Although still dominant players, there is a distinctive shift to cultivating individual, boutique, small family-run brands. Once subject to bulk fruit mentality and homogeneity, viticultural focus is shifting to a hyper-local, artisanal, and personalized approach, resulting in wines with personality and flair.
Every region seems to have its heroes and renegades, those that choose not to be tethered to tradition for the sake of sameness. These personalities drive innovation, stir up controversies and become the agents of change.
Two of Abruzzo’s champion producers who pushed for modernizing winemaking and celebrating regional distinctions are Emidio Pepe and Edoardo Valentini. Both favor an organic approach, avoiding any harsh chemicals, sulfur or fining/filtration. Astoundingly, Pepe ferments and ages his wines in glass, decanting them prior to re-bottling and release. Valentini is known for his thorough and intense vineyard protocols, with the mindset of reducing yields and intensifying flavor. His hallmarks are extended maceration and lengthy oak regimes for both his white and red wines.
After tasting hundreds of local wines and multitude of varietal iterations some things were evident. First, the value proposition. Their wines represent a bargain and are well worth seeking. Second, the region is making meaningful strides towards homing in on the best it has to offer to a discerning wine lover.
Most importantly, Abruzzo wines are not meant to be flashy, full-bodied or grandiose. They very much resemble their surroundings and their makers – steady, gracious, gentle and understated. The kind of charming wines you can reliably serve in many contexts, that will deliver with no pretense and fanfare. Their unique grace and charm will win you over when you are not paying attention. I have long believed that wine’s greatest role is context, mood, feeling. However, despite this, I used to travel to wine regions in search of technical notes, precise data points, memorizing viticultural techniques, soil and climate types, and trying to come away with a cohesive practical perspective.
I now travel for the feeling – the wines that make me admire and experience things… an unexpectedly fresh breeze in the middle of a punishing 100-degree scorching summer heat, a shuffle of silvery leaves in an olive grove, the gentle whispers of lush hills, a sleepy rose-colored sunset over the water, the soft murmur of the waves.
That Abruzzo feeling.
You must be logged in to post a comment.