More in Morro Bay

If you have traveled in California on Highway One north or southbound (and if you have not, you should), you probably saw signs for Morro Bay. As it happens, Morro Bay is located equal distance from both San Francisco and Los Angeles, near perfectly in the middle. Should you decide to detour or plan a purposeful trip, I guarantee it’s well worth it.

The town’s most imposing claim to fame is Morro Rock, an ancient volcanic stack that became the defining characteristic of this captivating coastal area. The Rock is a centerpiece of Morro Bay State Park, with its thriving ecosystem of saltwater marshes. The picturesque harbor town boasts a buoyant bird estuary, scenic trails leading up to spectacular views and charming lagoons.

From the fluffy coastal fog rolling in, non-stop bird babble and sea lions barking, to the varied marine life—otters, harbor seals, and sea lions, and many a paddleboard with a puppy happily perched, Morro Bay’s laid-back magic is both eccentric and highly addictive. If you travel at the right time of year, when these majestic creatures migrate, whale watching is a must.

Any outdoors person, nature, or seafood lover will surely feel as though they landed in paradise. Morro Bay is rife with perfect opportunities to hike, kayak, paddleboard, bird watch, or enjoy the views while consuming delicious gifts of the sea. It’s a fishing town, so every single bite of seafood is super fresh. I visited at the tail end of the salmon season; it was by far the finest salmon I ever ate. Ditto for the mild, delicate oysters that had the coolest cucumber/watermelon quality.

There is no shortage of great lodging options for any budget, with most representing value for your dollar, along with easy harbor access. I highly recommend The Landing at Morro Bay with its spacious, comfortable rooms and panoramic bay views. 

Once you get settled, a walk on Embarcadero is a must. Bristling with local shops and restaurants and boasting spectacular views, against the marvelously menacing Morro Rock backdrop, it’s a charming blend of laid-back human and raucous wildlife.

Come for the views, stay for the food. Foodies will enjoy casual yet intensely fresh and invariably delicious, frill-free fare. Next-level clam chowder, an impressive array of local fish, all newly caught, of course, cooked or cured, oysters—raw, fried, barbeque, or Rockefeller—all palate-pleasing and reasonably priced to boot. Grab some incredible local sourdough bread for extra oomph. I credit this tiny town with the learning of Oysterology—a study of oyster terroir—tides and patterns that affect the flavor profiles. Local species, such as Morro Bay Grassy Bar oysters, as mentioned, have ever-so-slight salinity versus other, brinier varieties. The texture is softer and more subtle, evoking minerality, purity, and mild sweetness. Splash some sparkling wine into your delicious dozen for a stylish, mouth-melting meal.

This tasty bit of culinary wisdom was shared by STAX wine bar owner and local fisherman Giovanni DeGarimore. STAX features over 100 local wines from Central Coast, and a smart menu with lots of fresh seafood, cheese, and charcuterie options, as well as salads and sandwiches.

One of my other favorite meals was delivered by Mark Tognazzini, second-generation Morro Bay commercial fisherman who owns two seafood restaurants on the Embarcadero. Tognazzini’s Dockside features fresh seafood paired with magnificent patio views on the waterfront. This indoor eatery is a decades-long local favorite; the other, Dockside Too, is a bustling fish market featuring casual outdoor dining and daily live music.

Mark’s business started taking off back in 1995-96 when his father began selling fresh fish right off the dock directly to buyers, compiling a lengthy “mailing list” of eager consumers. Mark’s business philosophy leads with ethics, integrity, and a sustainable approach, balanced by common sense. He is exceptionally knowledgeable and brutally honest. Unlike some, who pass vermilion rockfish for a fancier-sounding and pricier snapper, he is fully committed to maintaining rigorous transparency.

For a slightly more formal dining experience, try The Galley Seafood Grill & Bar in Morro Bay. Dating all the way back to 1966, it serves ultra-fresh, premium, exotic seafood sourced from both local and global purveyors, along with magnificent harbor views. Catch a stunning sunset and indulge in dishes featuring seasonal ingredients from their farm, accompanied by an excellent, well-priced wine list.

The highlight of my visit was perhaps the least expected. I was planning on spending an hour with chef Len Gentieu and his charming wife, Midge. They are proprietors of Papagallo II, a 72-foot luxury motor yacht that offers catering, food, and wine pairings, showcasing local wineries and other special events throughout the year. By the bottom of the second hour, I was convinced that Len should run the world; by the third, I was completely in love. Chef Gentieu is an honors graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America-New York and is a brilliant artisan. His fried abalone, whipped up in a postage-stamp-sized kitchen in mere minutes, showcased a perfect pairing of simplicity and skill, inspired by decades of honing his craft. What’s even more special about Len is his life philosophy, generous heart, wit, work ethic, and tenacity. I will be looking for more Leni-isms, wisdom, and delicious food soon. If you have a special event coming up—birthday, anniversary, company function, etc. you won’t find a better way to celebrate than engaging with Gentieu, guaranteed.

 

Traveling on the Central Coast means being surrounded by wine regions. Should you have an instant wine tasting craving while in town, Chateau Margene tasting room to the rescue! It’s a 3,000 or so case boutique winery specializing in Cabernet and Bordeaux blends, as well as Pinot Noir. Owner Michael Mooney co-founded Paso Robles Cab Collective along with the Daniel Daou group. Terrific wines and super-friendly staff.

 

I spent just a couple of days in Morro Bay but frankly experiencing withdrawals. This tiny town, with a strong sense of identity and purpose, stole a piece of my heart. I was duly impressed with the dogged dedication to fresh, sustainable ingredients, a sense of accountability, with owner-operators on site, strong bond with nature and engaged, friendly vibe—all vivid hallmarks of wholesome, fulfilled living.

 

With its undeniable, compelling charm and synergy with surrounding nature, it’s no surprise that everyone I spoke with from local leadership to business owners, to residents, feel fortunate to leave there. I will be back for more of Morro Bay.

 

Below are my favorite stops: