It is hard to overstate the impact 2020 has had on all of our lives. Some fared better than others, but none of us were left unscathed.
For someone like me, whose life is about visiting wine regions and in-person conversations, it has been rough. Once the fog of Zoom meetings and other impeded interfaces lifted, it became obvious that there is no substitute for close human contact or tangible connection with your environment.
Luckily, I finally had a way of doing something about it.
A year ago, I was invited to visit a luxury, all-inclusive guest ranch in Wyoming. Although I wasn’t certain that “dude ranch” activities were in my wheelhouse, the compelling food, and wine program made for an easy decision.
Wyoming is the least populated state in the union, with 580,000 inhabitants. For calibration, 880,000 reside just in the city of San Francisco. Over the years, quite a few celebrities have been quietly buying properties there, clearly for a good reason.
Excited to finally being able to travel, I hopped in my car and headed to a destination that would shake me to my core.
If you have never driven from the West Coast to Wyoming, I would highly recommend it. It is a relatively laidback two-day trip, that rewards with some captivating views, animal sightings, and plenty of opportunities to clear the cobwebs in your head.
The Ranch
Red Reflet Ranch sits at 8,300’ elevation at the base of the mighty Bighorn Mountain range. The 29,000-acre property called “Reflet” (pronounced “reflay”) is a French term for “reflection.”
And reflect you will.
It is impossible not to be impacted by the topographical and ecological diversity of nature’s grandeur, and universally spectacular views—colossal multi-colored mountains, massive meadows, high desert, vast “as far as the eye can see” landscapes, flora, and fauna; but most of all the peace and tranquility that is utterly disarming. If you come from a densely populated, urban area, as I did, it’s a shock to the system.
From austerity to lushness, low grasslands to high-altitude mountain ranges, bright sunlight to dark skies, all the sudden weather transformations—this study in contrasts is awe-inspiring and has a profound, near unsettling effect.
A decade and a half ago the property, although being continuously managed as a working ranch, began welcoming guests. The concept was an authentic but luxurious experience with meticulous attention to detail.
This recreational haven is home to three dozen structures, including multiple equestrian facilities: stables, a magnificent 22,000 square feet riding arena, staff quarters, and lots more. There is a chicken coop and a butcher’s shop, as well as a large organic garden that seasonally supplies the restaurant. The estate aims to be as sustainable as possible and practices a holistic approach to ranching.
Perhaps the most impressive building on the property is the sprawling three-story Main Lodge, which boasts nearly 10,000 square feet of space. The guests are invited to make memories and share convivial meals on the main floor of the expansive dining and common areas, with its focal point of a grand wood-burning fireplace with trophy stuffed elk mounted atop.
The Lodge sits at a high elevation and is the epitome of an indoor-outdoor space. Designed for entertaining, the cleverly constructed glass walls slide up to reveal an expansive deck with 300-degree panoramic views. Catch a sunset there and you will be hooked for life.
Of the three dining areas, the most spectacular one is also made of glass, floor to ceiling, and channels a greenhouse. And who can resist the alfresco dining vibes on that stunning deck?
There is also a posh, yet cozy movie theater, a commercial kitchen, a wine cellar, and a bar.
There are four guest houses, including three spectacular Chalets, and another intriguing accommodation, a “best-kept secret” of sorts. It’s a remote cabin located at the highest elevation point of the ranch. The ambition it took to build this secluded dwelling is quite astounding. Merely delivering the construction materials, using extremely steep, practically nonexistent roads was a daunting task. Be sure to ask Bob, to share the full story—it is a jaw-dropping tale.
It’s well worth hopping on an ATV for an exciting ride up the mountain. With luck, you may see elk, and most certainly white-tail deer, and other creatures, while surrounded by stunning alpine scenery, culminating in charming clusters of aspen groves. Aspens are remarkable trees, linked by rhizomatic root systems, which means they are inter-connected, with roots extending and reproducing between an entire cluster. Truly a “family tree!”
Standing there, taking in the views, gives one a sense of being on top of the world—its stark snowy intensity, striking visions of the seemingly endless canyons below…the only audible sound is swishing wind. It evokes a sense of timelessness and underscores the significance of standing still, as a way to access your own primal core of humanity.
The ranch clearly has ample capacity to host large-size groups with diverse outdoor interests while equally adept in arranging an intimate, romantic, relaxing getaway for just the two of you.
The amenities are unparalleled, with a plethora of activities, such as ATV rides, mountain biking, rock wall-climbing, tennis courts, swimming in a natural water park fed by an artesian well (that stays warm year-round!), pole-fishing in a nearby bass-stocked pond or fly-fishing for trout in a crystal-clear stream, hiking, horseback riding, moving cattle with cowboys, zip-lining on an extensive four-course line, and a discreet, secluded shooting range, where you can release some stress and practice your aim.
After an invigorating day, you will be treated to Michelin-star meals prepared by a world-class chef in an immaculate commercial kitchen. The ingredients are all sourced (and even foraged) from either the ranch itself or top purveyors of produce and protein around the state and the country. Due to the owners’ high mobility, love of fine dining, and extensive, carefully curated wine collection, you are in for a treat. I had mussels that the owners themselves flew in from Seattle, vegetables from a local organic farm, and elk loin from the animal that Bob shot, that was processed on property. Suffice it to say, every meal is unforgettable.
If you decide to fly in, there is a paved airstrip with a 5,000 ft. runway, fuel depot, and a hangar that houses a Cessna, that is frequently flown by the proprietors.
All the design renderings were done by the owner—Bob Kaplan—who isn’t a professional architect but built enough houses that he felt confident in his vision, and a professional construction crew that lived on the property for several years. The vibe is western style with a modern aesthetic, spacious and airy; the comfort factor is off the charts. Somehow Bob conceptualized the sort of structures that radiate splendor without a hint of pretension.
Pioneer Couple
Bob and Laurence Kaplan are as charming as they are admirable. With two prior marriages, two successful businesses, and six adult kids between them and lots of grandkids, they started a joint business as a tribute to their union as a couple. And not just any business, but the one that poses great challenges, yet is uniquely rewarding.
They love bringing families together at the ranch and believe in the importance of spending quality time and relating in a way that is hard to do in real life, full of distractions. A wide range of activities suited for any generation and family-style meals are bound to create a strong bonding experience. Several families have been coming here for years; all overflowing with happiness and praise for the couple and their gracious hospitality.
Bob ran a successful baby product business and got introduced to Laurence at a trade show, while she was a competitor. After a lengthy courtship, at long last, they married. They knew that they wanted to own land, and after looking for five long years found it, or perhaps it found them. They were not necessarily looking for the type of property that is Red Reflet but fell hard for its majesty—a seemingly infinite, secluded series of singular spaces. There, they can enjoy privacy and indulge their love of wildlife, ride horses, raise cattle, plant a garden, hike, ski, hunt, and revel in freedom and independence.
They made a two-decades-long, multi-million-dollar commitment to what is now, under their care, a thriving sanctuary, the ultimate playground, a bespoke “lap of luxury.”
They view themselves as stewards, not possessors. Laurence could not have been clearer in her remarks on the subject—looking around at this powerful creation, how can one ever consider the term “ownership?”
Both avid hunters, astoundingly they hunt solo vs. together, utilizing both rifles and bow. The elk have an extraordinary sense of smell, so unless the wind is blowing the opposite direction, they instantly detect your scent from miles away. That means “stalking” the trails where the herd may appear for several long days, weeks even, hiking several miles a day. If you manage to shoot the animal, you get to drag it to your ATV, parked a mile away, and “field dress” it immediately. Elk, like a cow, has four stomach chambers and starts deteriorating quite rapidly.
It will be a while before I erase an image of a man of relatively diminutive stature, Mr. Kaplan, dragging a 750-lb animal for miles from my mind. Often there is no cell signal to be found, so if the problem arises, you are on your own. Talk about the man and the beast in the raw wilderness. Wow.
Laurence is just as fearless; if there is an intense endeavor in existence, she is in. She hunts, skis, snowshoes, hikes for miles solo in any type of weather. Or and also runs the ranch, a humongous task that requires hyper-vigilance, 24/7 commitment, and acute attention to detail. Guest experience rules around here, with perfect, seemingly effortless getaways expertly curated and executed.
As if all of this isn’t impressive enough, the Kaplans are both skilled pilots, and frequently take trips in their Cessna all across the country for leisure and to visit family members. Laurence is also licensed as a seaplane pilot.
I arrived at the ranch late in the evening and received a warm welcome, the Kaplans could not have been more gracious. We shared wine and swapped stories. It instantly felt like they were friends.
I was escorted into a striking Chalet high atop a mountain that features a wraparound deck with a hot tub, massive floor-to-ceiling windows that let in all manner of natural light, an open floor-plan bedroom with a luxurious bathroom, and a fully stocked kitchen. (We are talking organic coffee, tea, farm-fresh eggs, homemade yogurt, and the best bacon I have ever had. Breakfast was to die for!)
Rhapsody in Blue
They say, “if you don’t like the weather in Wyoming, wait five minutes, it will change.” That is not an exaggeration. The skies seem to morph every couple of minutes, revealing an entirely different look and feel. There are shades of blue I have never seen; the backlighting and color saturation doesn’t seem real. I caught myself wondering at times if I landed on a movie set.
The air is perhaps the purest, freshest you can ever breathe, so cleansing that you marvel at how it’s possible that you have never experienced this before. If you are into stargazing and tracing constellations, get ready to witness some astounding displays that will leave you speechless.
A Carrot and a Stick
My first day on the ranch was rather surreal, since waking up to these sorts of views is impossible to absorb or get used to.
Prior to arrival, the owners ask visitors to fill out a form that outlines activities preferences as well as varied likes and dislikes, meant to get to know the guests more intimately and cater closely to their agenda and taste.
There was another purpose, however, that became a linchpin of my time at the ranch.
I didn’t state much in a way of dislikes in my food preferences. One thing I indicated was my dislike for carrots. Inexplicably, they would make frequent appearances in my lunch and dinner dishes and were so delicious that I would routinely polish my plate. No carrot was ever left behind. Chef Nate had his ways of turning a carrot hater into a lover.
It hardly stopped there. I skipped checking boxes for horseback riding, fishing, ATV-riding, or skeet-shooting. I was basically planning on breathing fresh air, eating some great food prepared by the talented chef de cuisine, working off the COVID-19 pounds at the state-of-the-art gym, bask in the wonderful views, take photos and hopefully write some inspired prose.
Did I mention that my gracious host, Laurence, a charming woman of warmth, wit, quiet strength, amongst a long list of extraordinary aptitudes, not the least of which is reading folks “like a book,” had a different plan? Did I imagine that distinct twinkle in her eye, when she asked what time I arrive at the stables? Weaseling out didn’t look like an option.
So, there I was—no excuses, no armor to hide my uncomfortableness from the gaze of the outside world.
My questionnaire cover was blown to bits, so I was getting on a horse, but that was it. If I had to resort to evoking the form, that clearly read “no horses, fishing, or shooting,” so be it.
I was informed that my horse, Joker, was the mildest-mannered in the three dozen on the ranch. “He will take great care of you, ” alleged Paul, a handsome cowboy with a velvety voice, who at some point should have considered a career of a leading man in Hollywood. I managed a faint smile, and we were off.
Joker is a good-looking horse, but more notably, even smarter than he looks. In the end, we became fast friends, despite my initial fears and his clever ploy to get rid of his tentative rider.
Right off the bat, he tested my boundaries by getting quite close to the barbwire fence or veer off-trail. I eventually mustered the courage to thump on his sides slightly harder (after being repeatedly told that he is a horse, not a kitten!) He was also keen on randomly slowing down and lagging behind.
When we rode back, I discovered a curious phenomenon. Concerned about a longer-than-planned ride and returning at lunchtime (the meals are timed precisely,) I wondered if we will make it back in time. I was told not to worry about it, the ride back will be far faster. True to that, the horses picked up the pace significantly the second we turned around. I could barely recognize Joker the slowpoke. I guess it’s true what they say – the road home is shorter.
Anyone who has ridden a horse understands how special these creatures are. The bond they have with their human caretakers is unlike any other. Watching the interactions between the cowboys and the horses was mesmerizing. These relationships are intimate, intuitive, heartfelt, compassionate, and require a high level of skill.
Human “Terroir”
You may have already guessed what would happen next. I surrendered the voice in my head that said, “This isn’t who you are. You can’t do this.” I went bass-fishing, rode the trails, and shot an array of guns. Multiple times. The subsequent stints were my idea. I would do it again in a heartbeat, all of it.
It was a rebirth, a cleanse from preconceived notions and insecurities, partly piled onto by a paralyzing pandemic.
The owners staged a coup of sorts by pushing me way out of my comfort zone and awakening an innate sense of adventure. I could barely recognize myself and my newfound sense of boldness. In the end, I couldn’t feel more grateful.
My appreciation also extends to the people of mind-blowing character that work at the ranch.
The staff is model examples of patience, goodwill, charisma, and impressive skillsets. They made all individual experiences the best they could have ever been, with continuous encouragement, coaching, candor, and kindness.
To say that the experiences in and out of themselves were unforgettable would be an understatement. Yet somehow, they were outdone by the folks who make this ranch a truly remarkable destination.
One of the major highlights was getting to know the ranch’s Executive Chef, Nate Singer.
I got a chance to shadow him in the kitchen, which gave me a good clue as to what it means to be a great chef. It involves way more than technical skill, talent, and tenacity. It involves a stellar character, a sharp mind, and treating your colleagues like treasure.
When we were first introduced, he looked familiar. As it turns out, we met in Aspen and again in Napa at Heritage Fire events. (It never ceases to amaze me how “small” the food and wine world is.)
A fifth-generation Wyoming native, he was raised by a mom who by day worked in oil fields, and by night grew a garden and a traveling musician father who also happened to be a generational master butcher, devoted to clean wholesome eating. Work ethic, living off the land, hunting, fishing, growing your own food became second nature to Nate. His family bought a century-old establishment, Cody restaurant called Cassie’s, where he worked in different roles on and off since age ten.
(I had stopped at Cassie’s on my way back and am now ruined for life when it comes to a great steak
—more on that in another article.)
Trained by famed Hosea Rosenberg (winner of Top Chef Season 5) with whom he worked for nearly a decade, Nate passionately pursued the craft of butchery from an array of renowned master craftsmen and mentors. His mentors came from all walks of life, from ethnic, old-school cooks to world-renown celebrity chefs. He quickly became an avid advocate for locally raised meats that are treated with integrity from start to finish. His quest for learning how to properly treat any animal didn’t just end with butchery, he learned the art of baking, charcuterie, salume, and cured a variety of meats such as pork, lamb, goat, deer, elk, and others. His goal is to honor the animal that gave their life for the sake of our nutrition. “Food is Medicine” isn’t just his motto, he lives it every day through his delicious, healthful, fulfilling meals.
Nate’s background highlights include opening restaurants and a butcher shop, called “Blackbelly,” with Rosenberg, and working on such advanced endeavors as curing prosciutto, culatello, and all sorts of fermented sausages. He co-founded and is currently involved with Carter Country Meats that offers an online subscription. I quickly became a pleased patron. If you sign up, you will never be able to buy steaks or burgers in the store again due to a dramatic difference in quality.
Nate is a man of many expert talents and a peach of a human.
I got a chance to interview him for my podcast, and strongly suggest that you tune in. This interview was unlike any other I had ever had the pleasure to conduct.
Code of the West
Of all life lessons learned, the most profound was the “Wyoming way” or “Code of the west” – simple but an all-powerful litmus test of character.
The “code” is basically a sense of poise, grace, and consideration. In other words, having a high EQ (emotional quotient.) One of its crucial tenets is to listen rather than speak. The other is to be genuine at all costs. Your word is your bond. Hold yourself accountable, with no excuses or justifications.
I could not help but hope that someday it could be replicated and exported to all 50 states. This approach would solve a lot of our problems as a society.
Listen to one of the ranch personalities, a highly respected and admired Danny Griffin, whose raw authenticity touched me to the core. Words to live by spoken by a Great Human.
Epilogue
Back home, I felt oddly lost. Something was noticeably missing. Somehow these exquisite crimson rocks weren’t a mere visual treat. They got under my skin. Besides a welcome respite, there was a spiritual stirring. Red Reflet and its symbolism became a part of me, deeply engrained; a special bond that occurred somewhere between bouncing on an ATV on some spectacular trails and watching a gracefully grazing elk.
What’s more, I needed some faith restoration, in humankind and myself. That’s hard to do out of context; much easier when surrounded by live examples.
The toll the proverbial “rat race” takes is nothing trivial. The trouble is, it takes distance to see up close.
What are you willing to do in order to tap into the best version of you, to restore a slice of the soul?
It takes vulnerability, asking uncomfortable questions, deliberation, and die-hard dedication to ferreting out the meaningful parts. Humbling yourself pays dividends. You will be rewarded with the kind of connections that will not be soon forgotten. These salt-of-the-earth folks who practice what they preach and live in harmony with the land may just restore your faith in everything that’s genuine and worthwhile.
True revelations require a catalyst and a facilitator. Life-altering insights are not accidental. They are sought and acknowledged, consciously or subconsciously; that’s what makes them powerful. They may come from a man or from nature. Sometimes a simple side glance from a pooch can dress you down and make you realize that you have allowed yourself to detach from all that matters and forsake your authentic self.
If you are on a mission to find what was lost, answer a few existential questions, or feel closer to the Creator, I can’t think of a better place. Come to discover the infinite plains where the wild creatures roam, snow-covered mountain peaks, and a night sky illuminated by countless constellations, and you just might receive a highly personalized message.
Nearly every time I made a comment about something that I either didn’t know or forgot about, someone remarked, “Welcome to Wyoming.” These simple words may hold multiple meanings; I know what they meant to me.
In a world where change is constant, what grounds us is a constant, and this must never change. Witnessing it laid out right before me, in plain sight, gave me the comfort I was seeking.
Thanks for welcoming me, Wyoming.
You are everything I never knew I always wanted.
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